This will be an uncomfortable article to write and quite possibly an uncomfortable one to read.
This wont be a pleasant praise of Gareth Pugh’s Spring Summer collection, so I will start this report by stating that Gareth Pugh has been probably one of the most exciting and innovative designers of the last few years, his early days were bold and rebellious and after winning ANDEM he added a certain polish to his works.
But this Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2013 was quite frankly, dull. There are some beautiful ideas in the collection, which we will come to. But, it has to be said that the entire show just felt like a repeat of a signature.
Now this is not necessarily a bad thing, especially when you want to sell. However, it is not what Gareth Pugh represents. Pugh was not the “Todd Lynn” of two years ago, a Goth stuck in a rut, but a pioneer of his kind. This collection did not feel pioneering, nor ground breaking.
As aforementioned, there were some beautiful ideas in the collection, most importantly the silhouette. Some of the structure and shape was certainly exquisite and there are some pieces that really stand out.
What disappointed me the most is thinking of other designers whilst watching this collection. When I see Gareth Pugh, I don’t want to be thinking “That’s very Mark Fast” or “That has a Rick Owens Structure”. Pugh is his own man, his own visionary talent, and this collection just completely let that down.
I suppose what I am saying is, we’ve seen this all before. Gareth Pugh’s shows used to be a time when you didn’t know what to expect, when he would blow the roof off the catwalk with incredible artistry that shocked and enlightened the macabre world.
There will be those talking of sales and how this collection is much more wearable, but even with a sales based collection it would have caused no harm to include 3 or 4 statement pieces to reward the fans and followers of Gareth Pugh and in turn gain the colossal amount of press and PR that can induce.
Knowing full well that Daphne Guinness is one of Gareth’s main mentors and collaborators, it is a shame that we lost the art and the creativity in this collection that I know both are capable of.