Jean Paul Gaultier Autumn Winter 2012
This was definitely the show that blew all others out of the water at Paris Fashion week this season. While some argued that there were “no roots” to this collection, I strongly disagreed. There was a massive variety of looks, all were cohesive and beyond brilliant. The Velvet Underground and Nico were the perfect soundtrack to the 80’s punk inspired collection, transporting the audience to a rocker chic dream.
True to the line’s usual aesthetic, the mood was heavy with black, it’s gothic edge not forgotten in this extreme new direction of design. The show started off quiet, almost like a rumble in the distance signaling something bigger, something more frightening, something…. monumental. Although this made a few fans a bit uneasy, the grandeur of the collection was undeniable, always something for every woman. With every revolution, change must be made, and this new wave (pun intended) of ferocity is only the beginning.
Sharp, structured suits paired with leather pieces began in a steady stream, followed by traces of a “Cruella Devil” woman underneath bold black and white woven jacquard trousers. Leather waist cinchers and fur accents began to trickle into each outfit, elements of sex getting bolder by the minute.
The looks were electric, liquid metallics hugged long legs and dripped down matching gloves and clutches, my favorite being the clutch with the cuff attached; the perfect resolution for the woman who hates to hold it.
Graffiti splashed blazers and psychedelic furs took everything to a whole new level, every look more bold than the last. Prominent roots in the hair became as vivid as the colors in the clothing, slick snake skins and luxe embellishments fueling the fire of emblazoned individuality.
Floor length capes transformed simultaneously into full skirts with one fluid movement, giving the garment multiple purpose, doubling in functionality.
The highlight of the show by far was a debut by Andrej Pejic, stomping down the runway alongside Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Aline Weber and other top female models. Pejic’s look was legendary in a graffiti-print suit with an orange fox stole thown casually over his shoulder.
This new Gaultier woman strikes a perfect balance between sophistication and youth for the upcoming AW, again, becoming the most influential designer to change my wardrobe this year.