Tokyo has long been considered the capital of style for the discerning devotee, and the newly Mercedes-Benz-sponsored Fashion Week Tokyo is no exception. Tokyo Telephone‘s Rebecca takes a look at the darker side of Fashion Week…
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to clothing and design with an edgier twist here in Tokyo, and it was surprisingly well represented at this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo given the number of participating designers.
Japanese fashion as a whole is a vast melting pot of trends, inspiration and flawlessly executed fashion, and it’s no wonder that so many talented designers rise to the top and become part of the large machine that is Fashion Week. It’s a crucial step for many young creators, and of course I’m always more than happy to see clothing I’d actually love to wear making it’s way down the catwalk in front of me.
There were many fantastic runway shows this Fashion Week, and it’s becoming harder than ever to choose a small selection to highlight. Nonetheless, here’s a look at some favourites that are sure to tickle the fancy of StyleNoir’s fans:
Making his Fashion Week Tokyo debut, Nakazato kicked off the week of events in a way that the tone for the rest of the week. Selected as the ‘Mercedes-Benz Presents’ designer this year, models emerged from billowing smoke wearing futuristic shiny fabrics contrasted with organic skeletal accessories. Known for pushing the boundaries of gendered clothing, Yuima Nakazato did not disappoint.
Another Fashion Week newcomer, Nakashima showed a wonderfully solid first collection that centred round strong tailoring. For the second part of the show, we were treated to blasting music, sculptural collars and stunning panelling on trousers and jackets that set Atsushi Nakashima apart as one to watch.
A Fashion Week highlight for many, this well-attended show continued Somarta’s tradition of creating breath-taking showpiece clothing. While models wore increasingly more complex garments, the tones turned from earthy to a rather arresting blood red, complete with vein-like wing structures, before returning to off-white bony additions. Credit must also be given to the models who managed to walk in the signature Noritaka Tatehana heel-less shoes.
Making a name for himself over the past year, Christian Dada’s designer Masanori Morikawa was inspired by humanity’s struggle with nature. A huge favourite of street level punk kids and haute couture fashionistas alike, this collection with wide-legged trousers, chunk knitwear and huge blocks of studs cemented Christian Dada as central to Tokyo’s diverse fashion scene.
This design team duo have been making waves in Tokyo’s underground style arena, and this trend is certain to continue following Dressedundressed’s fantastic catwalk show. The audience was not only treated to a collection of re-imagined formal wear with unsettling leather harnesses and braces, but also a short American Psycho inspired film following the runway show that put Dressedundressed in a truly seductive context.
The last of our Fashion Week debut brands, Alice Auaa started by showing a short black and white film, starring designer Yasutaka Funakoshi, that set the tone for one of the best alternative fashion shows Tokyo has ever seen. Dancers cavorted down the runway, while madams dressed in fishtail skirts and leather corsets strutted and posed for all to see. This was Japanese gothic at its very best, and it’s easy to see why Alice Auaa has such a cult status among it’s audience.
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